Montenegro was a journey of rapid changes of scenery. In Kotor, we walked through warm, bright lanes; in Žabljak, we lit the wood burner in the evening; and on Lake Skadar, our boat glided between water lilies. The rental car connected these very different stages, although a short distance on Montenegro’s mountain roads does not necessarily mean a quick journey.
Our Montenegro road trip at a glance
- 18 May: arrival at Podgorica Airport, rental car, brief stop in Lovćen National Park and drive to Muo on the Bay of Kotor
- 18–21 May: Muo as a base for Kotor, the fortress, the bay and Perast
- 21–23 May: Bosača near Žabljak and Durmitor National Park, including Black Lake and the Tara
- 23–25 May: Dujeva near Rijeka Crnojevića as a base for Lake Skadar
- 25–28 May: Budva, Sveti Stefan and relaxed days beside the sea
- 28 May: return to Podgorica Airport and flight home
We stayed in four different places. That may sound like a lot in eleven days, but it worked well for the contrasting regions. Roads around Kotor and Budva are busier; inland, bends, gorges and spontaneous photo stops determine the pace.
Our four places to stay in Montenegro
We booked all four through Airbnb and were delighted with each one. Rather than repacking every day, we used them as regional bases. The major sights of each stage were within reach and the trip formed a clear loop from and back to Podgorica.
- Apartments Bella Vista in Muo: our first base directly on the Bay of Kotor
- Vila Hana in Bosača: fantastic wooden cabins in nature, a few kilometres outside Žabljak
- Rooms Dujeva Drago in Dujeva: a slightly dated property run by an incredibly warm family, with a superb view over the landscape
- Sun’n’Sea in Budva: slightly outside town, but less expensive and very modern
Communication at Rooms Dujeva Drago was not always easy without Montenegrin. Patience and gestures worked, and the family’s warmth plus the view more than compensated.
We collected the car at Podgorica Airport and returned it there at the end. The capital was therefore the beginning and end of our circuit, although we did not plan an overnight stay in the city.
18–20 May: Kotor and the bay
After landing in Podgorica, we collected the rental car directly at the airport. On the way to Muo, we drove through Lovćen National Park. There was no time for a longer visit, but we stopped at a viewpoint over the Bay of Kotor. We reached Muo that evening. From Apartments Bella Vista, Kotor was our first major destination. Its old town sits compactly behind the walls, filled with narrow lanes, small squares and constant glimpses of the rock faces rising behind the roofs. Early in the morning it was pleasantly quiet; later it became much busier. Cats appeared everywhere between the lanes and squares and have long become part of the old town’s character.
The climb above the old town was sweatier than the map suggested. With each step, the view opened further across the red roofs and deeply indented bay. That panorama is a good reason to begin early: less heat, fewer people and more time simply to stop at the top.
We did not need to reserve the boat trip in Perast. Small boats regularly leave the waterfront for Our Lady of the Rocks, so we could join spontaneously. The bay looked completely different from the water. Pack sun protection and a light jacket together, as the breeze can feel surprisingly cool on the open water.
After the boat ride, we ate at Pizza Bocalibre in Perast. The setting was lovely and the pizza genuinely delicious. That evening, we went to BBQ Tanjga in Kotor. It is an easy recommendation for meat eaters, although queues can be long when it is busy.
21–22 May: From the coast to Durmitor
From Muo, we continued to Vila Hana in the high village of Bosača near Žabljak. The drive north brought the largest change of scenery. The Mediterranean coast became green plateaus, dense forest and peaks with lingering snow. Shortly before arriving, we wondered whether we had taken a wrong turn into the forest. Then the wooden cabins appeared and immediately became one of our favourite stays. They suited the landscape perfectly, and the wood burner made the cool evenings especially cosy.
At Black Lake, Crno Jezero, we intended to complete the entire circuit. A waterfall had flooded the trail, so we could not continue at one point. Instead, we followed another route uphill towards the peaks until the first snowfields began. Our planned lake circuit became a spontaneous short mountain hike.
Rafting on the Tara
We booked the rafting trip spontaneously in Žabljak. Numerous operators offer short-notice tours. The Tara provided the most active part of our journey. Wearing wetsuits, helmets and life jackets, we set off onto the striking turquoise water. Between pale rocks and dense green vegetation, the gorge felt even larger than it looked from the road. Quiet stretches left time to look around; elsewhere, everyone had to paddle together.
Before booking, we would confirm the operator, included equipment, transfer and current water level. Keep dry clothes in the car. The Tara remains icy even in sunshine, as we noticed at the first splash.
We had not expected that the day was a public holiday and many restaurants and supermarkets were closed. Fortunately, we still found somewhere serving ćevapčići. If you travel spontaneously, check local holidays and buy provisions in time.
23–24 May: Virpazar and Lake Skadar
From Bosača, we returned south to Rooms Dujeva Drago near Rijeka Crnojevića. An incredibly kind family ran the slightly dated property, which had a fantastic view. Communication without Montenegrin was not always easy, but patience and gestures worked. From there, we explored Lake Skadar. On the boat trip, open water alternated with broad carpets of water lilies. The slow pace was perfect after so many bends and the rafting trip.
Another highlight waited above the water: the view across the loops of the Rijeka Crnojevića. With bread, cheese, olives and a glass of wine in front of that panorama, no other activity was needed for a while.
A morning departure is worthwhile for boat trips, when light and temperatures are more comfortable. Insect repellent, a sun hat and enough water are useful despite the gentle pace.
25–27 May: Budva, Sveti Stefan and the sea
For the final stage, we moved into Sun’n’Sea in Budva. It stood slightly outside town, but was more affordable and very modern. After all the earlier stages, we did not want to squeeze a large programme into the last few days.
We explored Budva, drove to Sveti Stefan and spent time by the sea. From the viewpoint, the small densely built island and its narrow causeway are impressive even from a distance. Afterwards, we went down to the water and could even swim.
We did not need more at the end of the trip. We took the final days slowly, enjoyed the sea and drove from Budva back to Podgorica Airport on 28 May. There, we returned the car and flew home.
Practical tips for a Montenegro road trip
- Rental car: a compact car makes narrow roads and parking easier. Document insurance cover and existing damage at collection.
- Driving times: allow generous time for mountain roads, viewpoints and heavy traffic around the bay.
- Clothing in May: swimwear for the coast and warm layers for Žabljak belong in the same suitcase.
- Cash: keep a reserve for small car parks, markets and spontaneous stops.
- Offline maps: download them before driving into the mountains and save accommodation coordinates separately.
- Daily plans: one major activity per day is often enough; the landscape creates extra stops by itself.
We would choose similar bases in Muo, Bosača, Dujeva and Budva again. They distribute the longer drives and leave enough time to experience each region beyond the car window.
Our verdict on Montenegro
Montenegro stayed with us not because of one place, but because its contrasts sit so close together. Only a few hours separated the Bay of Kotor from the wood burner in Žabljak. Between the Tara and Lake Skadar, the colour of the water changed, but not our urge to stop again.
Next time, we would add another hiking day in Durmitor and plan fewer places along the coast. For a first road trip, however, the balance was exactly right: some city time, a great deal of landscape, cold mountain air and warm Adriatic sun. There were also enough bends to make even short stages feel like a genuine road trip.
