We explored Madeira from one fixed hotel rather than driving a continuous loop. Funchal, waterfalls, mountain viewpoints and the north coast all became day trips. That made unpacking easy, but required flexible planning because weather on the coast said little about conditions in the highlands.
Our Madeira itinerary at a glance
- Day 1: late arrival and check-in at Hotel Baía Azul
- Day 2: bus to Funchal, market, old town and cable car
- Day 3: Rabaçal hike, turned back in heavy rain
- Day 4: Eira do Serrado and Curral das Freiras
- Day 5: Pico do Areeiro out-and-back hike
- Day 6: Seixal, Ribeira da Janela, Fanal, Achadas da Cruz and Ponta do Pargo
- Day 7: Levada do Moinho
- Day 8: Ponta de São Lourenço and evening flight
Madeira’s roads are often steep and winding. Distances look short, but viewpoints, traffic and weather make generous buffers worthwhile. A fixed base worked well for us because we could change the order of days without moving luggage.
Day 1: Late arrival
We reached the hotel at around 11 p.m. and kept the first evening simple. For a late flight, confirm reception hours, transfer arrangements and rental-car collection in advance. We only wanted a quick check-in and sleep.
Day 2: Funchal by bus
We took the bus into Funchal, walked through the market and old town, and used the cable car for a different view of the city. Lunch was a burger at The Snug Smoke House; dinner stayed near the hotel.
Day 3: Rabaçal in heavy rain
We set off for Rabaçal, but the weather deteriorated quickly. Heavy rain made the route increasingly unpleasant and eventually unsafe, so we turned back. The coast can be bright while the highlands are hidden in cloud, and waterproof clothing does not turn every condition into a good hiking day.
Day 4: Eira do Serrado and Curral das Freiras
After the wet hike, we planned a lighter day. From Eira do Serrado, the view dropped into the dramatic valley around Curral das Freiras. The drive itself demanded attention: steep roads and long descents are easier with low gears, sensible braking and breaks rather than rushing.
Day 5: Pico do Areeiro
We had imagined reaching Pico do Areeiro for sunrise, but chose hotel breakfast instead and arrived later. The upper car park was already full, so an early start is useful even without sunrise.
We walked an out-and-back section of the mountain route. Some hikers organise a one-way trip with a taxi, but the return suited our plan. It was much colder at altitude than at the hotel, and the many stairs and repeated climbs made the hike more demanding than its distance suggested. Offline mapping such as MAPS.ME helped with orientation, but current official Visit Madeira trail information should always take priority.
Day 6: Madeira’s north and west
This was our longest sightseeing day. We began at Seixal’s black-sand beach and continued to the rock formations at Ribeira da Janela. Pack swimwear, but do not assume the Atlantic will be calm enough for swimming.
At Fanal, mist, ancient laurel trees and grazing cattle created a completely different atmosphere. Give animals space and remember that visibility can change within minutes.
We also stopped at the Teleférico das Achadas da Cruz viewpoint and ended at Ponta do Pargo for sunset. We deliberately did not squeeze whale watching into this already long day. The drive back in darkness confirmed that the itinerary was full enough.
Day 7: Levada do Moinho
Our legs were still tired from Pico do Areeiro, so the Levada do Moinho felt like a good change of pace. The path followed water through green vegetation towards a waterfall. It was easier than the mountain hike, but not a substitute for rest if your muscles are genuinely exhausted.
Day 8: Ponta de São Lourenço and departure
Our flight left at around 7 p.m., which gave us time for Ponta de São Lourenço. The roughly six-to-seven-kilometre out-and-back route crossed a dry, windy and exposed landscape unlike the island’s green interior. There is little shade, so sun protection and water are essential.
Our verdict on eight days in Madeira
Madeira rewarded early starts and flexible plans more than a checklist mentality. The fixed hotel base was excellent for changing the order of day trips when mountain weather shifted. It also made the trip feel calmer even though several days were demanding.
Next time, we would schedule a proper recovery day after Pico do Areeiro and turn back sooner in persistent rain. We would still keep one base: for eight days, not packing every morning was more valuable than saving a little driving time.
Before setting off, check current trail closures, cable-car operation, weather and road access through official local sources.