This Azores itinerary is all about contrast: São Miguel is larger, varied and relatively easy to explore. Flores feels smaller, greener and even more shaped by the Atlantic. Between them was a short flight that, under the rules at the time, we were even able to book for free.
Our Azores itinerary at a glance
- Porto: an early arrival day and one full day with port wine and a free walking tour
- São Miguel: one night in Ponta Delgada before the onward flight
- Flores: Poço da Ribeira do Ferreiro, crater lakes, Fajã Grande and Fajã de Lopo Vaz
- São Miguel: Sete Cidades, Ponta da Ferraria, a tea plantation and thermal pools
We deliberately combined just two Azorean islands. São Miguel alone offers enough variety for several days. Flores lies far to the west of the archipelago and completely changes the character of the trip. Instead of trying to tick off as many islands as possible, we had time for landscapes, changing weather and spontaneous stops.
Porto: one full day before the Azores
Our Azores itinerary began in Porto on 29 February. We landed very early in the morning and stayed at Predicados do Douro Palace. At the time, arriving via mainland Portugal was a condition for receiving the onward flight to another Azorean island for free. Porto was therefore not just an extra city break for us, but part of this flight combination.
We deliberately kept our arrival day open. After the early flight, we walked through the city without a fixed plan and spontaneously decided to tour Taylor’s port cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia. The visit ended with a tasting. Because we had not planned it long in advance, it felt like a particularly lovely chance discovery.
On 1 March, our free walking tour started at 10 am. We had simply taken in the city the day before; now many buildings, squares and neighbourhoods gained a historical context. Afterwards, we continued exploring Porto and did a little shopping.
Strictly speaking, we had one early arrival day and only one complete day in Porto. That was enough for city walks, port wine and the walking tour, while keeping the main focus of the trip on the Azores.
Two restaurant tips for Porto
We particularly enjoyed Rua Tapas and Sandeiro do Porto. There was even live music at Rua Tapas on the evening we visited, which made the spontaneous dinner feel even more special. I would check whether music is scheduled before visiting, as it may not be a regular event.
Our first night on São Miguel
On 2 March, we flew from Porto to São Miguel. Before continuing our journey, we initially had just one night in Ponta Delgada. We walked around the city in the evening and gained a first impression of the largest Azorean island without planning a long list of activities for those few hours.
The following day, we continued to Flores. The flight went via Terceira, where we only changed planes. The connection left no time to explore the island, so Terceira really was just a stopover for us.
Our free onward flight from São Miguel to Flores
After our night on São Miguel, we flew with SATA Air Açores via Terceira to Flores. This island flight was free for us at the time. Portugal, or more precisely the Azores, offered an inter-island connecting route when travellers flew from mainland Portugal via one of the larger Azorean islands to another island. Our earlier arrival through Porto met those conditions.
Flores: waterfalls and a wild Atlantic coastline
The flight alone made it clear how far Flores lies from São Miguel. After landing, the trip became quieter. The island feels rural, with roads running between pastures, small villages and steep slopes. Views of the Atlantic open up again and again.
Our Airbnb near Lajes das Flores was wonderfully secluded, directly beside a cow pasture and overlooking the sea. The hosts brought us fresh eggs in the morning. These small, personal moments suited Flores perfectly. On our arrival day, we did nothing else and simply explored the immediate surroundings of the house.
Unfortunately, we became ill during our stay and had to spend a few days much more quietly than planned. We stayed close to the Airbnb, took photos and let the landscape sink in. With that view, travelling slowly by necessity was not the worst alternative.
Poço da Ribeira do Ferreiro
On our second day on Flores, we drove to Poço da Ribeira do Ferreiro. The walk to the lagoon is short, but after rain it can be damp and slippery. Shoes with good grip are therefore a sensible choice.
At the end of the path, numerous narrow waterfalls tumble down an almost completely green cliff. The water collects in a calm lagoon below. The place is striking not because of one huge waterfall, but because of the entire semicircle of cliffs, water and dense vegetation. Despite the short walk, it was one of the most impressive places on our Azores itinerary.
Lagoa Negra and Lagoa Comprida
We then continued to Miradouro da Lagoa Negra e Lagoa Comprida. From here, you look across two large crater lakes that sit directly beside each other yet appear completely different. The almost black Lagoa Negra creates a particularly strong contrast with the surrounding greenery.
A narrow road runs between the lakes. It makes the landscape look even more unusual and was also one of our favourite photo spots on Flores.
Fajã Grande and the coast of Flores
At the end of the day, we drove to the water at Fajã Grande. Around the village, the island’s greenery meets dark lava rocks and the open Atlantic. We stayed on the coast for a while and watched the waves crash against the black stones. This is where you really feel how exposed Flores is in the middle of the ocean.
A short, steep hike to Fajã de Lopo Vaz
Once we felt better, we hiked down to Fajã de Lopo Vaz. The route is not long, but it descends quite steeply along a path and many steps. At the bottom, an isolated black beach lies beneath the high cliffs.
We stopped for a small lunch with sandwiches we had made ourselves. The simple food, dark beach and remote location were exactly the kind of experience that stayed with us after Flores. Save enough energy for the return: every quick downhill step has to be climbed again.
A spontaneous cheese tasting at Queijaria Val da Fazenda
That evening, we drove across the island to Queijaria Val da Fazenda. We had not booked a tasting, and it is not somewhere you can simply expect one on arrival. We asked anyway and were lucky. The owner showed us the small dairy, explained how the cheese was made and let us taste several varieties.
No one else was there. That made the visit feel especially personal rather than like a scheduled attraction. We understood that organised tours may also be available; if you specifically want to visit the dairy, contact them in advance.
Back on São Miguel: crater lakes, tea and thermal water
On 6 March, we flew from Flores back to São Miguel and checked into Volcanic Charming House. We now had more time for the largest island in the archipelago. São Miguel combines crater landscapes, coastline, fields and geothermal areas within a relatively compact space. Even while driving, the scenery changed constantly.
Caldeira Velha: hot springs surrounded by greenery
The next day, we drove to the thermal pools at Caldeira Velha. The warm natural pools lie among dense greenery, ferns and dark rocks. For us, this was one of the places on São Miguel that genuinely deserves a recommendation. Bathing here feels much more like being in nature than visiting a conventional spa.
From the abandoned hotel to Sete Cidades
One of our hikes began at Miradouro da Vista do Rei. The abandoned Monte Palace Hotel stands directly beside the viewpoint and gives the famous view across the Sete Cidades lakes a rather unusual backdrop. From there, we continued hiking towards Sete Cidades.
The route was more demanding than our short walks on Flores, but still manageable. The perspectives across the crater landscape kept changing until we eventually reached the village below.
An evening swim at Ponta da Ferraria
In the evening, we drove to Ponta da Ferraria. Here, hot volcanic water meets the Atlantic. We went into the sea, which was a memorable ending to the day after the hike and completely different from bathing in a thermal pool.
Whale watching with a few mishaps
We had booked a whale watching trip for the following day. Unfortunately, we got the departure time wrong because of the time difference. I also took my seasickness tablet far too early, so I slept through much of the boat trip.
The whales that were spotted could only be seen far in the distance. The timing in early March and the conditions that day may both have played a part. For us, the trip was not a major wildlife experience. It was more of a reminder that sightings in the wild can never be planned.
Clouds twice at Miradouro da Boca do Inferno
We still did not want to miss the famous view from Miradouro da Boca do Inferno. On our first attempt, however, the entire landscape was covered in cloud. We could see practically nothing of the crater lakes.
We tried again at the end of the trip, but the viewpoint remained completely hidden. São Miguel made it very clear that even a carefully planned itinerary cannot control the Azores’ changeable weather.
Tea overlooking the Atlantic
Between excursions, we explored more of Ponta Delgada and visited the Chá Gorreana tea plantation. The low, neatly arranged rows of tea follow the green hills with the Atlantic behind them. This combination of agriculture and coastal landscape stayed in our minds. The visit was easy to organise and still felt like one of São Miguel’s most distinctive places.
Terra Nostra Park to finish
After our second unsuccessful attempt at Boca do Inferno, we took a walk through Terra Nostra Park. Although the park is known for its large thermal pool, the quiet walk through the gardens was what gave us a calm ending to our time on São Miguel that day.
Geothermal landscapes and bathing in warm water
Across São Miguel, the island’s volcanic origins are clearly visible. Hot water rises from the ground, steam hangs between ferns and signs warn of temperatures that can approach boiling point.
The water in the thermal pools is not clear like swimming pool water. Iron and other minerals give it a strong colour and can stain light swimwear. Dark swimwear and a separate towel are the more practical choice.
Return flight via Porto
At the end of the trip, we flew back to Porto and stayed at Eurostars Matosinhos. We briefly walked to the nearby beach, but would not plan an additional stay just for it. We did not find it particularly worth seeing. The following day, we flew back to Frankfurt.
Practical tips for an Azores itinerary with São Miguel and Flores
- Check island flights early: SATA Air Açores flies between São Miguel and Flores. Flight days and fares depend on the time of year.
- Leave a buffer: Flores lies far out in the Atlantic. Avoid a tight connection before an important onward flight.
- Do not combine too many islands: Two islands already make a varied trip. Every additional flight takes time and makes the route more vulnerable to weather disruption.
- Stay flexible with the weather: Sunshine, cloud and rain can alternate quickly. Pack a waterproof jacket and shoes with good grip even on promising days.
- For thermal pools: Bring dark swimwear and a separate towel because mineral rich water can stain pale fabrics.
- Keep viewpoints flexible: In solid cloud, even the drive to Boca do Inferno is barely worthwhile. Check visibility if possible and leave room for a second attempt.
- Keep whale watching expectations realistic: Sightings are never guaranteed. Take seasickness medicine exactly as stated in the instructions or advised by a doctor, and time it for the actual departure.
- Plan Porto deliberately: An early arrival day and one full day were enough for city walks, a port cellar tour and a free walking tour.
If you are looking for another Portuguese island with a very different character, read my eight day Madeira itinerary.
Conclusion: two islands that complement each other
São Miguel and Flores did not feel like two versions of the same island. São Miguel brought tea fields, gardens and geothermal landscapes to the itinerary. Flores was wilder, quieter and shaped by waterfalls and the open Atlantic coast.
We would no longer receive the free island flight we used at the time. The combination still makes sense if you include the extra connection in your budget from the beginning. If I planned another Azores itinerary, I would still rather explore two islands thoroughly than connect as many airports as possible.