We deliberately planned a quiet week in Finnish Lapland. The four of us stayed in an Airbnb near Meltosjärvi, cooked for ourselves, used the separate wood-fired sauna and left plenty of free time between outings. At temperatures between minus 30 and minus 40 degrees, that slower pace was exactly right.
Our Lapland itinerary at a glance
We landed in Rovaniemi and spent most of the week around Meltosjärvi. We continued to Levi for one night. We deliberately do not show the exact location of our private accommodation; only Meltosjärvi is used as a general reference.
- 3 January: arrival in Rovaniemi, rental car, grocery shop and drive to Meltosjärvi
- 4 January: hike to a log cabin and wood-fired sauna in the evening
- 5 January: visit to Vuolo Reindeer Farm
- 6 January: snowmobile tour with an inconvenient check-in via Rovaniemi
- 7 January: drive to Levi, night with friends and our first northern lights
- 8 January: husky tour at Tundra Huskies and return to Meltosjärvi
- 9 January: free day by the frozen lake and sauna
- 10 January: return to Rovaniemi Airport and flight home
Our accommodation near Meltosjärvi
We chose the Airbnb because it had enough room for four people and stood close to a lake. The separate little sauna building was especially lovely. It was heated with wood and had no electric light. With a few candles, it quickly became our favourite place to warm up in the evening.
We do not share the exact address. For planning, the Meltosjärvi area is enough orientation. If you want a similarly quiet location, check not only the facilities but also the distance to supermarkets, tours and regularly cleared main roads.
Day 1: Arrival, rental car and groceries for the week
We landed in Rovaniemi at around 5:30 pm, collected our rental car and went straight to a supermarket. Because we planned to cook at the house, we bought groceries for the entire week. We had already sketched out breakfasts and simple meals such as spaghetti Bolognese and chilli con carne, which saved us from making repeated shopping trips.
After driving towards Meltosjärvi, we made something quick to eat and went to bed early. The stay did not begin entirely smoothly: the extreme cold had frozen several water pipes and one had burst. We initially had no running water, so our host brought large containers until the problem could be repaired.
Day 2: A winter hike to a log cabin and sauna
We slept in and had a leisurely breakfast. During the few daylight hours, we hiked from the house to a log cabin on a nearby hill along a route suggested by our host. From the top, we had a wonderful view over the snow-covered forest.
Wood was available inside the cabin for hikers to use. We made a small fire, but at around minus 40 degrees even that only helped so much. On one day, our car showed minus 41 degrees. We wore thick winter boots and three layers, yet never really felt warm. We did not plan anything else for that day.
In the evening, we heated the wood-fired sauna and placed candles inside. The aurora forecast was poor and the sky quite cloudy that day. We still found an aurora app useful for checking cloud cover and probability without heading out aimlessly every night.
Day 3: A reindeer farm and a very short ride
On the third day, we visited Vuolo Reindeer Farm. The owner spoke about his reindeer with great enthusiasm and knew every animal by name. It was immediately clear how much they meant to him.
A longer reindeer-sleigh ride was originally part of the visit, but it was shortened considerably to protect both people and animals in the extreme cold. We travelled roughly 500 metres in a small loop through the forest. Afterwards, we sat in a homemade tipi, drank tea and ate biscuits. The ride was brief, but the personal encounter still made the farm special.
Day 4: Our rather chaotic snowmobile tour
We had booked the snowmobile tour before travelling. First, we had to drive almost an hour to Rovaniemi to check in and collect the snowsuits, even though we passed the eventual starting point on the way. After a lengthy check-in, a large coach drove us all the way back there.
We rode snowmobiles on a prepared route through the forest. The large group created a lot of waiting around, which was difficult in the cold. Afterwards, we were given something resembling a hot dog in a tipi. Overall, this tour was the only real disappointment of the week.
Day 5: A slow drive to Levi and our first northern lights
We drove to Levi to visit friends who lived there at the time. The distance did not look particularly long on the map, but snow, darkness and extreme cold made us much slower than usual. We stopped for food and the journey occupied almost the entire day. Even inside the car, our feet barely warmed up.
In Levi, our friends suggested a nearby lake with an open view of the sky. There, we saw the northern lights for the first time. We stepped onto the ice only at the locally recommended spot and enjoyed the vast, dark view before ending the evening with games.
Day 6: A husky tour at Tundra Huskies
The next morning, we started our pre-booked tour at Tundra Huskies. This tour was also shortened because of the cold, as a longer journey would have been too demanding for the dogs. It was still impressive to sit in the sled and feel the team’s energy so directly.
The ride was great fun and one of our favourite outings. Afterwards, we returned to the Airbnb near Meltosjärvi and warmed up in the sauna again that evening.
Day 7: A quiet winter day by the lake
We had not planned anything major for our final full day. We walked across the frozen lake near the house once more, watched the sunset and simply enjoyed the snow. After the outings and relentless cold, that free day felt very welcome.
Those quiet hours were exactly what made the week special. We did not need a new highlight every day. The snowy surroundings, cooking together and the wood-fired sauna were already experiences in themselves.
Rental car and driving at minus 30 to minus 40 degrees
A rental car was essential for our remote accommodation. We had to adjust to journeys taking much longer on winter roads and to the car not warming up quickly in that cold. We drove cautiously to Levi and planned breaks.
On the final day, the car also began to struggle when starting. Under similar conditions, we would ask at collection how the vehicle should be preheated and which instructions apply in extreme cold. We would also allow plenty of time for the journey back and for returning the car.
Our return flight on Saturday still operated. After we arrived home, we heard that flights in Rovaniemi were cancelled the following day because of the extreme cold. It was another reminder not to plan tight connections on a winter trip like this.
What we would pack for Lapland in January
Layering was essential. Even so, three layers, thick winter boots and good gloves do not guarantee warmth while standing outside at minus 40 degrees. Movement and frequent indoor breaks mattered at least as much as clothing.
- warm thermal base layers for upper and lower body
- fleece or wool as an insulating middle layer
- a very warm jacket and windproof outer layer
- insulated winter boots with room for thick socks
- wool socks and dry spare socks
- thin liner gloves and warm mittens
- a hat, buff and face covering
- a head torch for the long dark hours
- a thermos flask and small snacks for drives
- a power bank, as batteries drain faster in the cold
Organised tours provided additional snowsuits, which were particularly useful on the snowmobile. Before booking, check exactly which clothing, boots and gloves are included.
Our verdict: a quiet week in deep winter
Our week around Meltosjärvi was much calmer than a classic trip with several activities every day. That suited the extreme temperatures. The reindeer farm, the huskies and our first northern lights were the big experiences, but the hike to the log cabin, the silent lake and evenings in the wood-fired sauna were just as memorable.
Apart from the awkward snowmobile tour, everything worked surprisingly well. If you visit Lapland in January, take the cold seriously, allow generous driving times and resist filling every day completely. That leaves space for what defined this landscape for us: snow, silence and plenty of time to warm up.
