Skopelos is known as the Mamma Mia island, but our days there ranged well beyond the film locations. We stayed in our apartment near Stafylos and spent time at quiet beaches, in hillside villages, on a marked trail and aboard a sailboat.
Our Skopelos days at a glance
Skopelos is often called the Mamma Mia island, but our days there were about more than film locations. We moved between pine-fringed beaches, small towns, a sunrise swim, a hike and a full day sailing along the coast.
Arriving in Skopelos Town
We arrived in the afternoon, wandered through the lanes and little shops, and found a very good gyros pita before driving to our apartment near Stafylos Beach. Our apartment had a kitchen, sea view and terrace. Slow breakfasts and afternoons outside became part of the holiday, not just a place to sleep.
Hovolo Beach and Milia Beach
From Neo Klima, we walked to Hovolo Beach. The last stretch crossed shallow water, which came to around our ankles when we visited. Water shoes helped. Pale rock, turquoise water and the green slopes behind it made Hovolo one of our favourite beaches.
Milia had similarly clear turquoise water, with sunbeds and a taverna and a little more activity around us. We stopped for lunch at Nikos Taverna in Panormos. Stafylos was more sheltered, though the water looked less turquoise to us than at Hovolo or Milia.
A sunrise at Velanio Beach
One morning we set an alarm for around 6:30 and walked from Stafylos along the small path to neighbouring Velanio Beach. We arrived alone as the sun rose over the sea. Part of Velanio is used as a naturist beach, while another section is not.
Glossa and the Mamma Mia chapel
In the north, we walked through Glossa’s steep lanes and stopped at the chapel of Agios Ioannis, known from Mamma Mia. We also visited an olive-oil press. It was a day that connected the island’s best-known film association with ordinary village life.
A sailing day with Kardous
We joined Kardous for a sailing trip towards Alonissos. We snorkelled, used the SUP boards and had lunch on board. The route continued along the coasts of Alonissos and Skopelos, and we reached the harbour again at around 6 p.m. It was a huge day on the boat, with enough time to enjoy the coastline instead of rushing from stop to stop.
See the Skopelos day cruise with Kardous on GetYourGuide
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Finding Amarandos Cave and snorkelling
Amarandos Cave was one of the places we were most glad we made it to. The approach is the catch: you can theoretically drive close to the cave, but the gravel track is steep and has deep holes. We would either park near the start and walk or choose a 4x4. The access is difficult from both sides, so a regular rental car is not a great match for the track. Once there, we climbed over the rocks into the water and snorkelled, watching fish below the pine-framed cliffs.
Hiking towards Palouki Peak
We followed a marked trail on Mount Palouki. The route sign described a 5.3 km loop taking around 2 hours 30 minutes, with 429 m of ascent and descent. The trail offered a different view of Skopelos from the beaches. Check the sign and conditions on the day, and bring water and proper shoes.
A little piece of Greece to take home
We brought my Tennis Club Greece sweatshirt along for the walk back by the sea. I designed it for my Etsy shop, and it has become one of my favourite things to pack for a Greek island trip.
See the Tennis Club Greece sweatshirt in my Etsy shop
Our take on Skopelos
Skopelos gave us space to do very different things without making each day feel like a checklist. We would keep a rental car for the island, but leave the rough Amarandos track to a walk or a 4x4. And we would make room for a slow afternoon at the apartment after the early starts and boat day.
Keep exploring the Greek islands
Our overview brings together the islands we have visited and the guides currently available.